Portofino

Portofino

Portofino

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Pastel-coloured facades, horseshoe harbour, trails to San Fruttuoso and the Christ of the Abyss: everything you need to know to visit Portofino, the pearl of the Ligurian Riviera.

Pleasure port, pastel-hued houses clinging to the clifside, little square bordered by medieval churches… Portofino is one of the unmissable jewels of the Italian Riviera. Here's the full picture.

Portofino, a dreamy seaside resort on the Mediterranean

Beach tourism is thriving in the coastal town of Portofino. Nestled within the Tigullio Gulf, the former Roman colony once known as Portus Delphini is home to lush, unspoilt vegetation between sea and mountain. As you approach the beach, the pastel-coloured houses lined across the hillside reveal a splendid tableau. Do you love cruising? Luxury yachts are waiting to tour the picturesque villages dotted along the Ligurian Riviera. Do you enjoy contemplating medieval treasures? Portofino's city centre is brimming with historical monuments, including Castello Brown and the sublime Romanesque church of San Martino.

The enticing local cuisine will add flavour to the experience. Playing up the romance factor, the seaside resort attracts a growing number of tourists, despite competition from its gorgeous sisters Camogli, Manarola and Vernazza. Visitors needn't fear boredom during a day's stopover or longer in the charming little town of Portofino.

A brief history

Portus Delphini, or port of dolphins… So the Romans called Portofino, because of the schools of dolphins that thrived along the coast. In the fourth century, the village became a Lombard possession. A community of Benedictine monks lived here to instruct and evangelise the inhabitants. The monks exercised ecclesiastical jurisdiction over Liguria. Portofino was alternately incorporated into Comorga, Carasco and San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte. An official deed from 986, signed by Adelaide of Burgundy and mentioning Portofino, bears witness to this.

Portofino had a turbulent political past. In 1229, Genoa annexed the port to its dependencies. In 1409, Florence acquired Portofino for a price, but having no use for it, handed it back to the Genoese Republic. The families of Genoese nobility then successively took control of the city. The Fregoso, Fieschi, Spinola and Adorno families competed for control of Portofino, their appetite for power causing them to neglect the welfare of their subjects. After freeing itself from the injustices of feudal rule, it would have to endure French domination in 1797 and Savoyard rule in 1815, before joining the Kingdom of Italy in the early twentieth century.

The modern town

Once a fishing village, Portofino is today a seaside resort with a population of 382. Its economic growth is based on tourism and commerce. Luxury tourism is developing rapidly on the bay. Portofino's location to the north-west of the Cinque Terre villages explains the town's success. With rising tourism, prices have skyrocketed, so visitors usually stop for only part of the day. Portofino is not to be missed on a day trip to the Cinque Terre.

What to see and do

Despite covering just 2.53 km², Portofino contains natural sites of outstanding beauty, and its little square hides medieval artistic treasures. You'll love it!

A stroll by the sea

Walking along the beach is a treat to enjoy the sand and sunshine. Tourists will be mesmerised by the brilliant light, the caress of the breeze and the spectacle of bright-hued houses clustered on the hillside.

Hiking in the Portofino Regional Natural Park holds pleasant surprises. Divers will observe rich aquatic vegetation. The Posidonia seagrass meadow reveals itself, an underwater prairie ecosystem endemic to the Mediterranean. This seagrass serves as a refuge for a variety of fish, sponges and crustaceans. Brilliant coral reefs are visible in the depths. English-speaking guides can tell you about the distinctive features of each species.

Discovering the heritage

A stroll through the historic centre is essential to marvel at Portofino's medieval architectural heritage.

Behind the main square stands the Church of San Martino. Built in the twelfth century, it exemplifies Lombard Romanesque architecture. The interior is strikingly rich, thanks to contributions from artists of the Genoese school. Unfortunately, visitors can only see a restoration. The original building was burnt to the ground.

Don't miss the Church of San Giorgio either, inaugurated around the same time as the previous church. The parish's reputation rests on the fact that the relics of Saint George are piously preserved here. A local sailor had given them to the church as a gift. He had thanked Heaven for returning safely from the Crusades and brought back the saint's bones. Though modest in artistic furnishings, the San Giorgio chapel is worth visiting for its location on Portofino's promontory. It offers the finest panoramas over the bay and pleasure harbour.

Dating from the fourteenth century, the Oratory of Our Lady of the Assumption is also worth seeing in the historic centre. Having lost its original appearance, it is architecturally unremarkable. But its window houses a sculpture of the Virgin and Child.

If you're an art enthusiast, the Museo Del Parco collection will delight you. Founded in 1980, the museum displays hundreds of contemporary sculptures in the open air.

Dominating the Gulf of Portofino, Castello Brown is a magnificent sixteenth-century military heritage site. It's usually visited at the beginning or end of your tour. The view is, to be frank, breathtaking. The harbour and Ligurian beach are clearly visible from the viewpoint. After taking photographs, linger in the castle's wooded park for a leisurely stroll.

Practical information

Climate in Portofino

European painters, poets and writers have long appreciated the Italian Riviera for its mild climate and brilliant light. A gentle breeze sweeps across the coast, preventing temperatures from reaching sweltering levels.

Best time to visit

Given the Mediterranean climate, avoid rainy spring and winter. The period from May to September is most recommended for planning a visit to Portofino.

The overwhelming majority of visitors don't spend the night in Portofino. As the town is small, you can quickly tour it in a day trip from Vernazzo, Camogli or the Cinque Terre Park. Ferry services abound to take you there.

Getting around Portofino

In Portofino, use your feet and forget the car. Parking fees are extremely high, as the destination is frequented by American celebrities. If you're not keen on walking, better to rent a scooter.

You'll love…

- Paying homage to the Church of San Martino, a major monument in the town;

- Enjoying a spectacular view of the harbour from Castello Brown;

- Setting sail aboard a luxury sailing vessel;

- Observing corals and other fascinating creatures while diving;

- Encountering wildlife in Portofino Regional Park;

- Tasting local produce.

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