Cortemilia

Cortemilia is a medieval village in the Langhe region, in Cuneo province (Piedmont), nestled at the confluence of the Bormida di Millesimo and Bormida di Spigno rivers. The town is known throughout Italy for its Tonda Gentile delle Langhe IGP hazelnuts and its Dolcetto vineyards. Among hazelnut-covered hillsides and cobbled alleyways, it offers an authentic glimpse of rural Piedmont, away from mass tourism circuits.

Essential information at a glance

• Access: from Alba, approximately 30 km via provincial road SP29; no direct railway station, car recommended.
• Suggested duration: half a day for the village and market; full day if exploring the surrounding hills.
• Market: traditional weekly market Sunday mornings on the main square.
• Ideal season: autumn (September–October) for hazelnut harvest and gastronomic fairs.

What to see

The historic center preserves a readable medieval fabric: narrow alleyways, stone houses and a few arcaded passages. The Del Vasto castle, perched on the hilltop on the left bank, dominates the village; its ruins testify to the site's strategic importance in the Middle Ages. The parish church of San Michele merits a stop for its Romanesque bell tower. Two bridges over the Bormida frame a characteristic view of the riverbanks.

History and context

Cortemilia was a fief of the Marquis Del Vasto (Aleramici family) from the 11th century onward. Its position at the crossroads of two valleys made it a commercial passage point between Piedmont and Liguria. Hazelnut cultivation, gradually introduced to the Langhe, shaped the local economy from the 19th century and remains the town's primary identity today.

Highlights of a visit

The Fiera della Nocciola

Every September, the hazelnut fair brings together producers, artisans and food lovers. It is the ideal time to taste Tonda Gentile in all its forms: roasted, as paste, in local cakes. Stands also offer Langhe wines and Piedmont regional products.

The hazelnut-covered hills

Secondary roads around Cortemilia pass through rows of hazelnut trees that, in autumn, take on golden hues. Marked trails allow walks or bike rides between orchards and Dolcetto vineyards.

The Del Vasto castle

The ruins of the medieval castle offer a clear view over the confluence of the two Bormida rivers and the Langhe hills. Access is on foot from the center, a few minutes uphill.

Photography tips

Late afternoon light is favorable on the stone facades of the historic center. In autumn, hazelnut-covered hills offer vibrant framing from higher elevation roads. From the castle ruins, a wide angle captures the river confluence and the village rooftops.

Location and access

Cortemilia lies in the upper Langhe, approximately 30 km southeast of Alba. A car is the most practical means of transport. Regional bus lines connect Cortemilia to Alba and Acqui Terme, but frequencies are limited. The village is compact and entirely walkable once you arrive.

Nearby

• Alba — capital of the Langhe, famous for white truffles and Barolo wine; approximately 30 km away.
• Dogliani — wine village renowned for its Dolcetto; about twenty kilometers to the northwest.
• Acqui Terme — spa town with hot springs and lively historic center; accessible toward the southeast.
• The Langhe — landscape of wine-covered hills designated as UNESCO World Heritage, surrounding Cortemilia.